Cruising the Klein Karoo in a Subaru Forester 2.5 XS

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The vehicle: Subaru Forester 2.5 XS

The gravel road turns to a grey blur as you race the Forester towards the next bend. Ahead, a sign warns you that it’s a sharp left-hooker. You downshift, ramming the stubby gearlever into third and the 2.5-litre motor growls in anticipation.

You’re almost at the corner, your stomach knots as you realise that you’re testing the very limits of this fulltime 4WD wagon. But it’s too late to back off now - you either make the turn or sail off the mountain. You pick your line, choosing to go wide before cutting past the apex of the corner. The Subaru follows your line to the centimetre and brings to mind that cliché, “it corners on rails”. You feel invincible, praising your own driving skills and wondering if you can go even faster around the next one.

If Foresters could talk, this is what they’d say: “Are you an old lady? I’ve seen faster driving in a car wash! Come on bru, we’re not looking for a picnic spot here, I’m just getting started!”

What a match – loose gravel, sharp bends, lots of uphill and a 4×4 that handles like it’s on a Scalextric track. On the mountain roads the Forester felt like an extraterrestrial machine, capable of manipulating the very laws of physics. And when I did overcook a corner, the vehicle’s traction control would quickly step in and save my backside.

But road-holding skills ain’t the only thing this Forester’s got to offer; the vehicle’s horizontally opposed 4-cylinder motor boasts 126 kW @ 6 000 rpm and 229 N.m. @ 4 400 rpm, and despite all this muscle, it still produces respectable economy figures (9.8 l / 100 km off-road). The vehicle also sports a tight 10.6 m turning circle (great for turning around on narrow mountain passes) and a very practical hill-start feature.

On the storage side, the Forester’s boot space is a throaty 450-litres, and with the second row of seats folded flat (1 660 litres) this SUV swallowed all we threw at it – camping chairs, tent, 40-litre Engel fridge, sleeping bags, luggage and a few packets of wood! This vehicle’s got it all: good looks, sporty performance, loads of storage space, the ability to cling to your heart the moment you fire it up, and best of all, a price tag below the R300K mark.

The trip: Klein Karoo

I’d like to propose a name change. The Klein Karoo should be called… okay, I haven’t quite figured out a new title yet, but I do know this place is far too interesting to be cast aside as a “mini-me” of the Great Karoo.

Having lived most of my life in the Western Cape, I was lucky enough to have enjoyed numerous family holidays along the Garden Route. On a few occasions we’d venture over the Outeniqua mountains into the plains of the Klein Karoo; here we’d pop into Oudtshoorn, the Cango Caves and, well, that was it really. But as much as I love this part of our country, for me, the Klein Karoo has always been the pizza crust of the Garden Route – it’s dry, it’s on the periphery, and few people are willing to waste stomach space eating it – not when there’s cheese and toppings to tuck into!

That was before I opened a road map and noticed a couple of things the Klein Karoo has that its coastal neighbour doesn’t – I’m talking about lots of passes and plenty of dirt roads. And so it was that I set off in a Subaru Forester to travel this region’s back roads and forgotten passes; if you wish to do the same, be warned, your relaxing holiday could morph into an unhealthy obsession!

Maybe I’ve got an addictive nature, but two days into this trip I found myself staring ceaselessly at our Garmin Colorado, urgently calculating travelling times between passes and running through questions in my mind… how far is this one from that one, could I do both in a single day, maybe I should drive this one at night, perhaps sleep on the side of the road and then drive that one the following morning.

I probably shouldn’t admit this, but the thought of quitting my job, stealing the Subaru and continuing my quest to conquer all of SA’s passes had crossed my mind. Luckily, my wife was with me, and in a calm and reassuring voice she convinced me not to take any rash decisions.

So if none of this scares you, and you’re still eager to risk addiction, the following off-road passes and their surrounding dirt tracks, are sure to get you hooked faster than you can say, “hi boss, I’m afraid I’m going to have to extend my leave”.

SWARTBERG PASS

Widely considered one of SA’s most beautiful mountain passes – and the masterpiece of a great road builder – the Swartberg Pass was the first track on my to-do list. For those of you arriving from the north, this is a perfect way to enter the Klein Karoo.

Starting at its northern slope, you’ll travel through a narrow valley with an abundance of green foliage and towering cliffs. Climb higher on the pass and your view rapidly changes from driving through the gorge to floating above it. Here, each stretch of road whips into a sharp bend and continues to reveal scenery so beautiful it could silence a teenager whose PSP has broken down.

Before embarking on this Klein Karoo voyage, I spoke with Katot Meyer, a man who knows this region better than you know your local Pick ‘n Pay. Katot informed me that two local farmers in Kruisrivier were opening a trail around the Red Stone Hills; the track promised spectacular views and absolute seclusion from civilisation. How could I resist?

Roughly 20 km in length, this trail won’t be found on many printed maps, and despite being a wee bit hectic for a softroader, it completely lived up to its promises. At its summit, you’ll enjoy one-of-a-kind views of the Red Stone Hills which bulge out into a plain between the Outeniqua and Swartberg Mountains. From this point the trail descends swiftly to the foot of these iron-stained rocks, and makes its way along firm sandy tracks through flower-filled bush. This drive is definitely worth considering and shouldn’t be missed.

MONTAGU PASS

If one were to consider the Swartberg Pass as the northern entrance to the Klein Karoo, then the Montagu Pass would be its southern gate.

The pass itself is a pleasure to drive, but if blind corners and narrow tracks don’t agree with you, best give it a miss. However, this would be a crying shame as this pass offers more than just stunning scenery; of the passes listed here, for me, Montagu felt the oldest. Not a decrepit kind of old, but more a leap-back-in-time old – it’s easy to imagine an ox-drawn cart skirting its mountain slopes.

As far as scenery goes, you’ll find yourself surrounded by the many (((italics koppies))) of the Outeniqua Mountains, timelessly backdropped by the distant Indian Ocean. The only thing that ruins this view is the traffic-burdened Outeniqua Pass that climbs its way up a distant peak.

At the northern entrance of Montagu Pass the N9 highway races by; if by this stage you’re drooling for more pass-driving action, then take this road east where many would say the best awaits you!

PRINCE ALFRED’S PASS

To reach the southern entrance of this pass – via the N9 – one needs to keep a sharp eye open for an unassuming dirt road to the right. This track will take you through beautiful farmlands and straight to a very special place. Imagine stumbling into a lush, tapered valley, with blossoming trees, pale white river rocks, a lazy mountain stream and a mood of tranquillity not unlike a fairytale. Yes, I’m talking about a place called Die Vlugt.

Located at the foot of Prince Alfred’s Pass, this small hamlet is home to just 47 residents, and is without a doubt a worthy find. Residents from neighbouring towns often take a Sunday cruise to this peaceful place, where they enjoy homemade bakes and something refreshing to drink at the tea garden.

When it’s time to hit the road again, make you way back to the tea garden, where you’ll find an inconspicuous dirt track peeping through a throng of dense bush – this is Prince Alfred’s Pass. A keen favourite among many in the Klein Karoo, Prince Alfred’s Pass is known for its diversity and unspoilt scenery. Fynbos, soaring forests, waterfalls and rock pools are all on the list for this romantic, mountain route.

SEWEWEEKSPOORT

This is a perfect way to exit the Klein Karoo. Make your way along the R62 through Calitzdorp and Huisrivier Pass, and just before you hit the town of Zoar, swing a right to Seweweekspoort. This pass twists and turns for 17 km, crossing the canyon’s stream some 23 times as it cuts its way through age-old volcanic rock.

The road here is fairly broad, so take your time and relax; plus, there are plenty of places to pull to the side, marvel at rock formations and chow a quick snack. Oh yes, and watch out for dassies on this road – these furry little buggers are more prolific than seagulls along the coast of the Garden Route.

In the six days we were there we drove 15 passes – eight on dirt and seven on tar – each one of these offered a unique experience and a new adventure through quirky towns and on remarkable dirt roads. So now I realise that far from being the Garden Route’s unwanted pizza crust, the Klein Karoo is a feast all on its own.

RED STONE HILLS TRAIL

Before we tackled this trail, Katot told me it would be easily managed by a softroader. But when I think back, I realise that his idea of rough ‘n tough would probably differ from that of a city slicker; sharp rocks, two-inch thorns and burning-hot sand – this dude walked over all of it… barefoot!

It didn’t take long before I found myself felling trees with a Leatherman, excavating the Forester out of soft sand and listening to thorny shrubs redesign the Subaru’s paintwork. But okay, enough sissy talk, at the end of the day the Forester came through – not quite scratch-free, but certainly without worries. And given half the chance, I would do it all over again – the trail’s that good.

Of course, the vegetation might have been trimmed back since our visit (October ‘08), but if you are worried about your vehicle’s paintwork, check with the trail owners. Contact Hennie (044) 213 3361 or Manie Potgieter (044) 213 3786 if you’d like to book a spot.

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This is an edited version of an article by Grant Spolander that originally appeared in SA4×4 magazine, South Africa’s leading off-road adventure publication. If you own a Subaru (Forester, Outback or even Tribeca) and enjoy exploring the great outdoors, SA4×4 is essential reading.